The Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum is Khiva's most revered site, even though it often gets overshadowed in "top sights" guides by the more visible Kalta Minor. Mahmud was not only a Sufi poet but also a legendary wrestler who, according to tradition, never lost a match, and after his death in the 14th century became the city's patron. The current building with its turquoise dome was built in the 19th century as a dynastic burial vault for the Khivan khans, but the grave itself is still honored by locals today: visitors traditionally make a wish at the entrance, and the inner courtyard is almost always quieter and less touristy than the neighboring squares of Ichan Kala, despite its status as the city's main shrine.
